Skin’s Hydration

31 March 2020

At Misencil®, we are committed to ensure that every day of your week is punctuated by a new knowledge, a new course or a new blog topic. I’m Cécile Michèle, and my job? The skin, the basis of our work to all of us… but yet I decided to let you discover its secrets!

Who am I? First, an esthetician like you. I created the 1st Anti Aging Centre in France, in which we already found 10 years ago LED, SKIN ANALYSER, PEELING, and mandatory appointment, dietary supplement, before/after photo etc.

My background: sales, bio, aesthetic medicine, traditional aesthetics, technology, training, etc.

I created the first training courses dedicated to estheticians exclusively on the theme of THE SKIN to provide necessary knowledge for the success and evolution of the aesthetic but also of our profession.

I want to remain neutral; I can tell you about the products, technologies that I know and appreciate, but my skin trainings are not oriented on any brands, why? The skin has its own function, if you know it, you will be able to choose your brands, your technologies in an INDEPENDENT way.

THE SKIN: A very structured Organization

Our playground is a very intelligent structure that contains water and lipids, among other things. Water AND oil (lipids) ??? Yes, yes! They are not made to get along and yet the skin has found a way to make them coexist, because these two elements are INDISPENSABLES!

The membranes of our skin cells are mainly made up of molecules called phospholipids.

In the cell membranes, the phospholipids will be placed in such a way as to create a lipid bilayer. A very intelligent system but with a fragile balance.

👉 FAT IS LIFE (love it 🤩)

Surprising: to keep water in the skin, the skin needs fat!! And so his EPIDERMIC LIPIDS….

An example to understand (the aesthetics that have already followed my training, you know!):

A person who washes (face and body) every day with a soap-type washing product or with a shower gel (humm yum-miam sodium lauryl sulfate – aggressive washing agent). Their skin will be stripped day after day after day again and again. Epidermal lipids are going to be eliminated. Cell cohesion is undermined; water will no longer be properly retained by the skin. It’s going to get dehydrated because she’s going to be parched. The skin will respond to this drying, it will produce lipids quickly, BUT they will be different from natural lipids: they are irritating to the skin! In the end, the skin’s dryness is added to the redness due to irritations.

It is therefore essential to focus on treatments that are in a natural affinity with our epithelial cells.

Beware of cosmetics containing alcohol, interesting active ingredients to penetrate the skin BUT DRYNESS, IRRITATING, and accentuating  dry skin.

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HYDRATION

At the end of winter we find that the skin pulls more than usual, why and how:

👉 First element : What happens on the surface of the skin?

Sudden changes in humidity have a direct impact on the formation of corneocytes and thus interfere with their regeneration cycle. This is what causes the tightness, cracks that many observe during the cold season.

The external air in contact with the skin, induces a natural phenomenon of evaporation, a part of the water contained in the skin evaporates throughout the year.

In winter, the air is dry, the effect of water loss by skin increases. ↗️

👉2nd element : What happens in the blood vessels?
The cold causes a vasoconstriction (contraction) of blood vessels present on the surface of the skin. ↘️

The natural hydration of the skin is therefore less important and cannot compensate for the water that evaporates on contact with cold, dry air.

👉3rd element : Temperature variation

Switching from hot to cold promotes and increases dehydration.

The cold climate is one of the causes but the heating dehydrates more the skin. The heating dries out the air and exacerbates the moisture gaps between the outside and the inside.

With age this phenomenon increases ↗️ :skin aging causes the skin to thin, it loses part of its ability to retain water. The heating does not help, it promotes the loss of water.

👉 4th element : we have the feeling of thirst in winter, we do not have the reflex to drink as much as during the hot months. This contributes to greater skin dehydration.

👉👉Therefore, at the skin level: These sudden variations (inside/outside) of the humidity level have a direct impact on the formation of corneocytes – AND THAT ON THE LIPIDS responsible for the TOTAL integrity of the skin – this disrupts their regeneration cycle.

And guess what, the dry areas (poor in sebum) of the epidermis are more hydrophobic, i.e. repels water. 😱😱

👉👉 With age, hormones interfere with the inner functioning of the water circulation, resulting in ➡️ water stasis!

A DEHYDRATION

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